Kram, just eight minutes from central Tunis. All roads end abruptly in the sea. There is space to sit and think and remember. The dawn is rosy-fingered, and the lone fisherman is up before anyone else.
There are two Krams. Eastern Kram, by the sea, has a cosmopolitan history. Sicilian and Spanish families used to live here not so long ago, as also in La Goulette (Halq al-Oued) just down the road. Across the railway line in western Kram, life is a hard scrabble for many. At least they have the beach in the summer.
Up the road to the north are the upper-middle-class villas of Carthage, discreet behind impeccably white-washed walls, often home to foreign diplomats and international NGO workers. The area is littered with Carthaginian and Roman archaeological sites. The Carthaginians chose their real-estate well. What was Kram in those days? Just a piece of marshland I guess.